Garenin Hostel - Places of Interest on Lewis
Garenin hostel forms one of a number of traditional croft dwellings that have been gradually renovated as part of the long-term restoration project for the former blackhouse village of Garenin on the west coast of Lewis. The village sits in a rustic, picturesque setting surrounded by old lazy-bed fields above the bay with a charming overgrown cart track leading down to the pebbly beach and the ocean beyond.
For many visitors who make a short, whirlwind trip across the Minch from the mainland or are restricted to public transport, Lewis is the only island encountered in the Outer Hebrides. Although this is a pity, Lewis nevertheless has a diverse range of attractions and in some ways provides a microcosm of all that is of interest to the casual visitor on these islands. There are sandy beaches, rugged cliffs, lonely moorlands, standing stones and circles, brochs, castles and museums documenting traditional island life. Other visitors may delight in the urban facilities of Stornoway.
Northwest Coast
The northwest coast is the most frequently visited tourist route in Lewis and has more than a handful of attractions that can be easily visited by car or bicycle from Garenin.
Garenin
While based at the hostel reserve a bit of time to explore the old blackhouse village. Up to several years ago the hostel was the only restored and inhabited dwelling in the deserted village while all the other blackhouses lay idle as ruins. Following the release of local, national and EU funds many of the blackhouses have since been sensitively restored in traditional style and are used for such purposes as a visitor centre, café, toilet facilities and self-catering style cottages. As a result of this redevelopment and the corresponding increase in tourism the old village is not quite the peaceful, secluded place of previous years although the wonderful sense of isolation and tranquillity thankfully returns in the evenings. Sitting outside the hostel eating dinner on a summers evening and watching a fiery sunset or squall out at sea is to many visitors one of the highlights of a stay at this enchanting place.
Dal Mor Bay
A delightful and relatively unknown walk can be made directly from the hostel leading north along the sea cliffs to the beautiful Dal Mor Bay. In a group of islands with no shortage of perfect sandy beaches and dramatic coastal scenery, Dal Mor must surely be up there with the best. The first glimpse of the bay after a nice cliff walk takes the breath away. The white sands stretch for more than 200 metres across the bay backed by rocky cliffs extending seawards to form a pronounced headland. Above the beach sits the local cemetery and a small road extending inland to the small community of Dal Mor. The bay produces a strong swell and in suitable conditions is the playground for the island surfing community! Tempting though the beach looks, swimmers should be extremely careful, as a fierce rip current exists in these waters. From Dal Mor the quiet road can be followed back to Carloway via the main road or the walk can be extended a few more miles northwards to another beach at Dal Beg Bay. More historical interest can be observed at nearby Siabost where a water mill and museum provide insight to local village life.
Carloway Broch
A few miles south of Garenin village is Carloway broch, approximately two thousand years old and one of the best-preserved structures of its kind in Scotland. The purpose of such buildings is still debated although many historians believe that they were essentially defensive structures that could be used as secure places of retreat and safety by local inhabitants in times of war and siege. The broch forms a commanding position and is very impressive from inside and outside being almost fifteen metres in diameter and over seven metres tall with one segment of the outer wall being particularly well preserved. The interior comprises a number of rooms, passageways, stairwells and an open central area where presumably livestock could be sheltered.
Standing Stones of Callanish
History abounds around Garenin and there are few finer monuments than the five thousand year old Standing Stones of Callanish. Perched on a small hillock overlooking Loch Roag the mysterious stone circle is one of the most important prehistoric sites in Europe although relatively unknown in comparison with the far more accessible sites of Stonehenge and Avebury in southern England. Nearly fifty stones form a Celtic cross with the tallest stone rising to almost five metres and the central point occupied by a crypt and chambered cairn. The origin of the stones is again a matter for speculation with a range of purposes suggested including a place of sacrifice and worship, burial ground, a social gathering point and as a calendar for the local farmers based on observation of the sun and stars. The best time to visit the stones is either early morning or evening when the softer lighting conditions combined with tranquillity after the departure of the rabble of coach tourists produces a more befitting and harmonious atmosphere from which to appreciate the site. Also nearby just off from the A858 are two further stone circles. They are not as dramatic or heavily promoted as Callanish but are still worth a detour for the sense of unspoilt mood they convey from a setting of isolation on the boggy moor above Loch Roag.
Bragar and Arnol Museum
Continuing northwards along the A858 towards the Butt of Lewis the road passes along the edge of the village of Bragar. Beside the road is a six metre high whalebone arch from which is suspended the harpoon that killed the animal in the early 20th Century. A surprising site and a reminder of the whale population that still exists in the waters of the Hebrides. A few miles further north and just off the main road is the well known Black House Museum at Arnol. With its carefully preserved thatch and turf roof, peat fire and hanging kettle, smoky atmosphere and connecting byre the museum beautifully captures the atmosphere of the traditional blackhouse and presents the harsh living conditions endured by local crofters in previous generations.
Ness and the Butt of Lewis
The lighthouse at the Butt of Lewis forms the most northerly point of Lewis and the Outer Hebrides and has been an enduring landmark for locals and passing ships for many years. From the elevated position above the cliffs on which the lighthouse rests there is an incredible feeling of space and freedom with the panorama in all directions being seemingly dominated by ocean and sky. On a stormy day it is a wild place with a cacophony of noise as monster waves crash against the sea cliffs and the myriad of seabirds swirl around on the up draught air currents. Seals can be seen on the rocks way below in calmer conditions. From the car park and if time permits, make the walk south along the cliffs to another fine beach at Traigh Shanndaigh below the village of Eoropaidh. Also worth a look is the old harbour at Port Ness from which an annual voyage is still undertaken in August by the local men to the island of Sula Sgeir to harvest the guga (young gannet) that is considered a delicacy in these parts.
Uig Peninsula
Extending west beyond Loch Roag, Uig is relatively undiscovered in comparison to the well-trodden tourist trail along the Butt of Lewis coast road. Discerning visitors who take the trouble to visit Uig will be rewarded with memorable sights with a sense of intimacy, originality and discovery not always experienced in the rest of Lewis.
Cliff, Valtos and Kneep
A quiet retreat for residents of the metropolis of Stornoway, these small communities offer a number of beaches ideal for sunbathing, swimming, surfing and sailing. There are also pleasant walks through the machair and along the cliffs with fine sea views.
Uig Sands
The broad expanse of the golden Uig Sands is famous for the 78 piece walrus ivory chess sets that were discovered in the eroding dunes near Ardoil in 1831. The collection of Lewis chessmen is believed to be of Scandinavian origin dating from the 12th Century when the island was controlled by the Vikings. The original pieces are now displayed at the British Museum in London although the discovery spawned a local replica industry for residents and tourists alike and a finely handcrafted set form a pleasant souvenir of a visit to the Outer Hebrides. Nearby at Gallan Head abandoned Cold-War MOD buildings make for a distinctly eerie Orwellian-style setting.
Mangersta
If few visitors make the trip to Uig Sands, Timsgarry and Ardroil then even less venture further southwards to the roadhead near Islivig and Brenish. Yet this lonely and under-rated area provides some of the most spectacular sites and enduring images of Lewis and again possesses that desolate ‘end-of-the-world’ magic that can only really be found in parts of the Outer Hebrides. The awesome sea cliffs and blowhole near Mangersta, which are not immediately evident from the road, must rank as some of the grandest natural features in the Outer Hebrides. A short stroll towards the cliff edge reveals a sensational drop to the crashing waves below braking onto the rocky beach and crumbling sea stacks. Looking south there are fine views to the desolate landscape of mountain, moor and bog in the vicinity of Loch Resort. Far out to sea are the lonely Flannan Islands again appealing to romantics of historical legend who can recall the haunting story of the three keepers who mysteriously disappeared while keeping watch at the Flannan Lighthouse in 1900. No bodies were ever discovered ….
The Interior
There is little of obvious appeal to the visitor with a bleak moorland interior seemingly bereft of natural features or historical antiquities. This grim region however was the setting for much traditional Lewis life with crofters spending summer on the moor to tend their livestock. Evidence can still be seen today in the ruined huts along routes like the Pentland Road and the more ancient and intriguing earth/stone beehive shielings set amidst the desolate bogs between Tolsta and Ness.
Peter Clarke's book The Outer Hebrides The Timeless Way features many aspects of the interior of Lewis and 'resurrects' long-forgotten tracks that were established in areas which have always been under-populated.
On the east coast, Stornoway is the main population centre for the island and serves as the ferry port across to the mainland at Ullapool and all worldly comforts for tourists.