Howmore Hostel - Places of Interest
Howmore hostel is situated on the edge of the small village of Howmore which is located on the west coast of South Uist approximately halfway between the larger settlement of Lochboisdale in the south and the northern edge of the island where it connects by causeway to Benbecula.
The hostel is conveniently positioned to explore the numerous natural and historical sites on South Uist but can also form a base for visits to other islands further south such as Eriskay, Barra and Mingulay. Bicycles can be hired from the hostel warden.
South Uist
Ben Mhor, Ben Corodale and Hecla
For keen and experienced hillwalkers there is a good horseshoe walk direct from the hostel and leading into the most spectacular and interesting of the South Uist hills. It is a diverse, wild and lonely walk taking the walker from the soft, machair landscape on the west coast to the bleak rolling, peaty moorland in the centre of the island and the dramatic mountain summits which overlook the rugged and rocky east coast of South Uist. A map and compass are essential as paths in the hills are indistinct or none existent and cloud can descend at any time.
On a settled day with good visibility the view from the top of Ben Mhor extends northwest to the islands of St Kilda in the Atlantic Ocean and eastwards in the other direction across the calmer waters of the Minch to the islands of the Inner Hebrides. On the east coast Glen Corodale is a beautiful, peaceful, secluded valley with abandoned croft dwellings situated at its foot on Corodale Bay. Of Jacobite historical interest here are the caves of ‘Bonnie Prince Charlie’ (the false one marked on Ordnance Survey maps and the much more elusive and supposedly genuine one hidden amongst the heather and scree!). The glen is a worthwhile detour from the main walk and an ideal, atmospheric place for wild camping.
For fit walkers all three mountains can be combined in a days walk but if time permits a more leisurely expedition can be undertaken, extending the walk with an overnight stay at Usinish Bothy (unlocked shelter, no charge) on the lower northeast slopes of Hecla and returning to Howmore the following day via Nicolson’s Leap, the old lighthouse at Usinish Point and Loch Skipport. A visit can also be made to a scattering of ‘souterrains’ (ancient underground dwellings) situated a 15 minute walk uphill from the bothy towards Glen Usinish.
Loch Druidibeg Nature Reserve
A mile walk to the wildlife reserve from the hostel and providing the opportunity to visit the wetland habitat of the rare greylag goose. A Scottish Natural Heritage information centre is situated adjacent to the reserve. There are great views of the mountain of Hecla behind the nature reserve.
Loch Eynort
A secluded sea loch penetrating far inland from the mysterious east coast of South Uist. Nice walks in quiet surroundings with otters, seals and good views north to the upper slopes of Ben Mhor. Alternative access route for journeys into Glen Corodale.
Flora MacDonald’s Birthplace
Outside the village of Kildonan is a memorial to Flora Macdonald who gained immortality by her assistance to Bonnie Prince Charlie in the Outer Hebrides after his flight from the mainland following defeat at Culloden in 1746. Nearby is an interesting folk museum, which presents an absorbing natural and cultural history of the island. Great for a wet day!
Eriskay
Tour of Eriskay
The old fishing community of Ludag on South Uist forms the departure point for boat trips to Eriskay and Barra. A ferry carries passengers and vehicles at regular intervals across to the small island. (Note: Construction of a new causeway from Ludag to Eriskay commenced in 2000 and is scheduled for completion in 2001, replacing the existing ferry).
All of the features of interest on Eriskay can be explored in a day or half-day with the highlight for most visitors being the beautiful white sandy beach of Coilleag a Phrionnsa (Princes’ Beach) on the west coast where Bonnie Prince Charlie first landed in Scotland in 1745 prior to the infamous and ill-fated "’45 Rebellion". A memorial in the sand dunes behind the beach provided by the local school celebrates the occasion. In Spring, flowers of the rare pink convolvulus can be seen behind the beach in the machair and are said to have been sown by the Prince from seeds brought from France.
Behind the beach, the interior of the island can be explored with nice views from the highest points of Ben Scrien and Ben Stack across to Barra and the other islands further south, and north to the hills of South Uist. Grazing the slopes of the hills are the wild and rare Eriskay ponies. On the quiet and infrequently visited north east corner of the island at Rosinish are a range of abandoned crofts. If you’re lucky at low tide you may even be able to see parts of the wreck of the SS Politician lying in its watery grave in the Sound of Eriskay after sinking in 1941.
To discover more about this famous event and view one of the old whisky bottles visit the island’s only pub (‘Am Politician’) in the village before catching the last ferry back to South Uist.
Barra
There is no GHHT hostel on Barra although responsible ‘wild-camping’ is permitted on the island and there are several locations suitable for this purpose. Alternatively, a day trip can be made to Barra from Howmore taking the passenger ferry from Ludag.
North Barra
The small community of Eoligarry is the arrival point for the passenger ferry from Ludag. North Barra is famous for the shell sand beach of Traigh Mhor (the cockle strand) used by British Airways as a runway for the daily flight from Glasgow. Westwards across the dunes is the fantastic mile-long beach of Traigh Eais facing the rollers of the Atlantic Ocean. Colourful primrose displays on the machair in May.
Castlebay
The main settlement on the island where the Cal Mac ferry arrives from Oban. Supermarkets, a post office, heritage centre and information centre. A short boat trip can be taken to the visually impressive 15th Century Kisimul Castle, which is situated on a small island in the middle of the harbour. Old home of the MacNeil clan.
Heaval
Castlebay is overlooked by the hilltop of Heaval, which rises behind the town and forms the highest point on the island. It can be climbed in about 1 hour from Castlebay and provides excellent views in all directions including south to Vatersay and north towards Eriskay and South Uist. Marble statue of Blessed Virgin and child on ridge leading up to the summit from the Castlebay-Brevig road on the east side.
Halaman Bay
Picturesque, sandy bay on the pretty west coast of Barra overlooked by the Isle of Barra Hotel. Walks along the beach and in the machair continuing southwest to the cliffs and natural arch at Doirlinn Head. Ascend BenTangaval for great views across the island and out to sea. More sandy beaches and seals further north at Allasdale.
Craigston/Borve
Visit the old blackhouse museum in a remote, hillside setting above Craigston to gain a picture of traditional crofting life. Energetic visitors can continue eastwards into the hills from the museum to visit the old chambered cairn at Dun Bharpa and on to the dip in the mountain skyline at Beul a Bhealaich that leads up to the top of Heaval. From Heaval a broad ridge descends to the settlement of Borve and more features of historical interest with standing stones and a windswept burial ground at Borve Point.
Vatersay
An island to the south of Castlebay and connected by causeway to Barra about 10 years ago to prevent depopulation of the island. There are numerous sandy beaches on Vatersay, which are great for walks and picnics. The best sands are to be found at Bagh Siar where the Annie Jane Monument on the western beach commemorates the tragedy of an emigrant ship that was wrecked off the coast of Vatersay in 1853 taking more than 300 lives. For historians, ruins of an old broch can be explored on the hillside above Caolis on the northern edge of the island near the Barra causeway.
Mingulay
An excellent day-trip from Barra including a sail southwards past Vatersay, Sandray and Pabbay to the uninhabited island of Mingulay. The island has a range of attractions including the dramatic western sea-cliffs with nesting seabirds, extensive views from Macphee’s Hill and remains of the deserted village situated beside the beautiful Mingulay Bay. Lovely white sands, clear clean waters and source for an invigorating swim on a hot summers day! In settled weather the boat trip may include a journey around the entire island with unforgettably spectacular coastal scenery and views of the menacing, vertical rock face of Biulacraig, one of the highest sea-cliffs in Britain. For more information about boats enquire at the tourist office in Castlebay.