Rhenigidale Hostel - Places of Interest
Situated in one of the most romantically isolated communities in the Hebrides on the spectacular east coast of Harris at the mouth of Loch Seaforth, Rhenigidale hostel is worth a visit in its own right. Only opened up to the rest of Harris and Lewis by a new road in 1990, Rhenigidale can now be conveniently visited by car or bicycle from the main highway across the island (A859). For those travelling the islands on foot the hostel can be accessed by a beautiful meandering ‘green-track’ from Tarbert in a fairytale landscape more reminiscent of a serene Scandinavian fjord.
Harris is arguably the most distinctive and interesting of the islands of the Outer Hebrides offering a tempting mixture of stunning mountain wilderness, secluded sandy beaches, quiet roads and footpaths and picturesque villages besides the sea. The island is traditionally known as the home of the world-renowned Harris Tweed cloth but in the year 2000 broadened its profile as the backdrop for the ‘Castaway’ television series set on the smaller nearby island of Taransay. If a week can be spared in any one place Rhenigidale is the ideal location from which to explore the treasures of Harris – one of the best-kept secrets in Scotland.
Harris
Toddun
The small mountain of Toddun forms a distinctive landmark above Rhenigidale with a seemingly precipitous ridge descending steeply towards the hostel. The ascent of the ridge provides an exhilarating half-day walk with a sense of mountain drama but without accompanying dangers. From the shelter and trig-point on the top of Toddun there are superb views in all directions tempting the walker into making plans for other glorious excursions into the Harris hills. There are no real paths leading from the summit but in clear weather there are a variety of options either leading back to the hostel or on towards Laxadale Lochs and Tarbert.
Green–track to Tarbert
The old footpath from Rhenigidale to Tarbert was once described in Country Life magazine as one of the classic walks in Britain. Originally used as a route by the Rhenigidale children on their daily journey to the school at Tarbert 5 miles distant, the green-track has decayed. However, the North Harris Trust is apparently putting together a fund in order to refurbish it. The track follows the green, lush hillsides above Loch Trollamarig before making a zigzag ascent up a well-engineered path to the moorland skyline. There are fine views west to the mountains of central Harris as the path descends to Urgha and on to Tarbert. This is a walk to be savoured and appreciated most on a fine day with frequent stops to absorb the unspoilt beauty all around. An exciting route back to Rhenigidale is via Glen Laxadale and across the mountain pass into Glen Trollamarig.
Molinginish
As a wet-weather alternative to Tarbert or as part of a detour from the main walk described above, the deserted settlement of Molinginish is everybody’s idea of a utopian island retreat. It can be reached by a narrow track through the bracken and scree above Loch Trollamarig although extreme care must be taken during wet weather when some of the rocks and burn crossings can be treacherously slippy. A scheme for the improvement of this track has been approved and work on drainage and culvert clearing is about to start.
Nestled beside a tiny bay out of sight of Rhenigidale, Molinginish has been deserted for about 40 years. Many of the buildings are decaying back into the surrounding landscape, although one of the blackhouses has been renovated by its owner, who lives further north in Lewis. Sit back, let the mind wander and contemplate the life of this small community in recent centuries. Molinginish must rank as one of the most romantically atmospheric places in the Outer Hebrides. More details about Molinginish can be found inside the hostel.
Clisham
Clisham (799 metres) is the highest mountain in Harris and all of the Outer Hebrides. Although it is not of the lofty elevations of the fabled Munros on the mainland it still makes a lasting impression on those who take the trouble to visit offering an entertaining mountain traverse in dramatic scenery with great panoramas of rock, moor and ocean. Here there is no footpath erosion, no litter and little sound to break the silence save the occasional shepherd. On a sunny weekend day in the middle of summer you are unlikely to see more than a handful of other visitors in comparison to the party crowds blanketing more famous British peaks such as Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike or Snowdon. Clisham is special; a real mountain, a connoisseur’s mountain.
Harris Hills Around Clisham
The mountains around Clisham form one of the true remaining wilderness areas of Britain. There is very little evidence of human occupation with the only real activities being deer-stalking, grouse-shooting, sheep-farming, fishing and hill-walking. The settlement of Kinlochresort in the middle of the wilderness is one of the loneliest and most haunting locations in Britain and a day spent here is not easily forgotten.
Access to Kinlochresort can be gained from the A859 near Ardvourlie on Loch Seaforth following an old stalkers’ path across Langadale River and along the lower northern slopes of Stulaval. An alternative approach is to head northwards by a distinctive land rover track through Glen Meavaig from the Hushinish road.
Another dramatic walk in this area is to Glen Ulladale and the intimidating rock-face of Sron Ulladale that towers above the glen. Entrance to this wild area can be initially gained from the Hushinish road in the vicinity of the famous Amhuinnsuidhe Castle Hotel where a power station access road follows the River Eaval into the mountains. Strong and experienced walkers can continue on from Glen Ulladale to the lonely outpost of Loch Resort that forms the natural boundary between Harris and Lewis. The steep southern shores of the loch can be followed westwards towards the sea eventually arriving at Cravadale and the old path back to Hushinish.
NOTE: All the mountain terrain around Clisham is remote from habitation, rugged and potentially dangerous. The weather can turn nasty surprisingly quickly and small fordable burns can become lethal raging torrents in a matter of hours. It is recommended that any journey into these particular hills only be undertaken by well-organised, experienced walkers equipped with outdoor survival necessities such as map and compass, tent, sleeping bag, torch, water, food and waterproof clothes. Additionally, all the land in this area is in private ownership (the Bulmer family) and it is prudent and courteous to seek permission first from the Estate Office before proceeding into the hills. See Tourist Information Centre in Tarbert for contact details.
Hushinish
Hushinish is the farthest point along the B887 road that runs between the southern edge of the Clisham hills and West Loch Tarbert. To travel along the road is pleasure in itself with constantly changing views of mountain and ocean as it meanders along and around the rocky coast. At the end of the road Hushinish forms a sleepy crofting community beside the attractive Hushinish Bay with a backdrop of the deserted island of Scarp. For such a small place there is lots on offer for the visitor be it a swim and picnic on the sandy beach or a walk across to the old settlement of Cravadale along an inviting green-track. From another golden beach below Loch na Cleavag there are views across to Scarp that was inhabited until the middle of last century, and was host to an early, and sadly short-lived Gatliff hostel between 1965 and 1970. The island is famous as the scene of a bizarre experiment attempting to transfer the occupants’ daily post across the water from Harris by rocket instead of boat journey. It was a spectacular failure and there are stories of envelopes still being washed up on the sands some years later.
Beaches of South Harris
Beach lovers are spoilt for choice on the Atlantic coast of south Harris. Travelling south from Tarbert the visitor can enjoy the sands and clear waters at Luskentyre, Seilebost, Nisabost, Horgabost, Borve and Scarasta. The beaches here are of a whiteness seldom encountered in Britain and seem more befitting of a tropical island paradise in Thailand (apart from a slight difference in temperature and not many coconut palms). From the small village of Northton at the southern end of Scarasta beach there is a pleasant walk across the machair to a ruined chapel beside the sea. Climb the dense heather-clad slopes above the ruin to gain the top of Chaipaval from where there are excellent views west to the islands of St Kilda on the ocean horizon.
Rodel
Beyond the uninspiring fishing village and ferry terminal of Leverburgh is the small settlement of Rodel. Best known for the beautifully preserved St Clements Church with its ornate interior originating from the 12th Century, Rodel also hosts a quaint mediaeval harbour that is well worth exploring. Just beyond Rodel, Lingerabay has been the subject of a contentious political, environmental and social debate for more than a decade as the minerals/quarrying company Redland Aggregates (now Lafarge) has proposed plans to develop the nearby mountain of Roineabhal as a super-quarry. After protest, public enquiry and appeal the Secretary of State finally rejected planning consent for the new quarry in autumn 2000. Watch this space…….
The Bays Road
Rodel is also the start of the Bays (or Golden) Road leading up the east coast of south Harris. The narrow winding road is not for the faint-hearted and demands careful attention throughout its course. When travelling by car it is recommended to stop often to absorb the peculiar landscape of this area. Pounded remorselessly by glaciers during the last Ice Age it has an edge-of-the-world, ethereal feel with mile after mile of bare grey Lewisian gneiss bedrock interspersed with small lochans, bogs and occasional sheep. The rock is the oldest in Britain and at nearly two and a half billion years old, about half the age of the earth. This is a unique environment with a solemn mood. This coast has particularly sad and bitter associations for local families, the Harris crofters having been evicted by unscrupulous landowners from the more fertile west coast in the 18th and 19th centuries and forced into a new harder life of lazy-bed potato crofting on the thinner, rockier soils of the east coast margins.